L.A. taquería basks in the afterglow of its Super Bowl halftime show appearance
By the time Victor Villa arrived at his restaurant Villa’s Tacos in Highland Park on Monday afternoon, a mob of press surrounded him, a line of customers had stretched down the block since daybreak, and cars and TV-news satellite trucks circled the parking lot, double parked in front of red curbs.
Villa, just returning from his appearance during the historic Super Bowl halftime show with Bad Bunny, did what he frequently does with patrons lined up outside Villa’s — be their hype man. He made his way to the line of fans and led them in a call-and-response cheer: “WHEN I SAY VILLA’S, YOU SAY TACOS.”
“Villas!”
“Tacos!”
Later, he’d fist-bump them one by one as each entered the small storefront.
The afterglow of seconds of interaction with a global superstar representing Latin culture, Villa said, is “an honor at the highest level.”
“During a time where immigrants are frowned upon, we were there to reinforce that we’re just about love,” he said.
One fan stood in line as early as 7 a.m. so he could say he was the first customer post-Super Bowl. The restaurant opens at noon.
Some brought pets, others brought infants, and more than a few donned either Villa’s or Bad Bunny merchandise, waiting for their taste of the tacos known for fresh, handmade blue-corn tortillas and piles of grilled meats, pickled onions and house-made salsas.
Inside, Bad Bunny’s “Tití Me Preguntó” blasted from the speakers while clips from the halftime show played on repeat. In his moment in the international spotlight, the taquero stood behind a branded puesto and received a Puerto Rican piragua from Bad Bunny as he passed by.
Fans wait in line at Villa’s Tacos a day after the Super Bowl halftime show.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
Villa said he received a call in December stating that Bad Bunny, the Grammy Award-winning Puerto Rican rapper, wanted him to participate in the Super Bowl halftime show. Villa still isn’t sure how Bad Bunny learned of Villa’s Tacos. He said the musician could be a fan, or noticed the positivity shared through Villa’s viral videos and social media accounts, which include more than 164,000 followers on Instagram.
Whatever the case, Villa said he saw it as a means of representing his family, Mexican culture and his hometown. The timing felt especially poignant.
“We have so much to share,” Villa said Monday. “Not only our gastronomy, but if you’re cold, I’ll give you my sweater. If you’re hungry, I will feed you. If you get thirsty, I will quench your thirst. I think sometimes we forget that we’re just all people. We’re all humans, and we all deserve to be loved.”
The halftime show involved three weeks of rehearsals, which were split between Los Angeles and the Bay Area, he said. Villa and his family had to keep the appearance under wraps. After the show, the internet exploded with memes, some of which featured Villa.
The founder launched his taquería as a sidewalk pop-up in 2018, first at his grandmother’s home, then on York Boulevard. In 2023 he opened the Highland Park storefront, and in 2024, launched a stall in Grand Central Market food hall. Last year he opened another Highland Park storefront, this time inspired by Baja-style tacos and mariscos. His food has made multiple appearances in the L.A. Times 101 List of best restaurants, as well as the Michelin Guide.
On Monday afternoon some guests in line said they had never tasted the tacos before. Others said they come multiple times a month and have patronized the stand since Villa popped up on Highland Park sidewalks.
His parents, who help run the local taco chain, stood in customized Villa’s jerseys and marveled at the commotion Monday.
“If they didn’t know about Villa’s Tacos, now they know,” said Victor “Poppoh” Villa Sr.
Marilu Villa and Victor “Poppoh” Villa Sr., the parents of Villa’s Tacos founder Victor Villa, stand outside the taqueria after Villa appeared in Bad Bunny’s halftime show.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
The 60th Super Bowl felt symbolic to Villa’s parents; it was also the 60th birthday of the chef-owner’s mother, Marilu Villa. On Sunday they celebrated it all together — moms, tías, cousins and other loved ones — and watched the game. When they saw Victor on screen, the room erupted.
“All the family were just going crazy,” Marilu Villa said. “Jumping up and down, crying — so many different emotions.”
They see echoes of their son in Bad Bunny’s music and the message that blasted across a large screen at the end of the performance: “The only thing more powerful than hate is love.”
“It’s like a total representation of what Victor is all about, which is transmitted through his food, through his community,” Marilu Villa added.
‘It’s not just Victor’s’
Villa’s parents said it’s also especially meaningful, given the immigration raids. Last summer ICE raids caused protests and uncertainty throughout the city, with street vendors and other workers fearing deportation. Villa Sr. came to the U.S. at the age of 18 and says he experienced that same fear.
“I know how they feel,” he said. “They feel scared, they feel unwelcome. But Bad Bunny put a lot of vendors [in his performance], and that sent a big message that vendors are not criminals. We came here to work and we don’t ask for anything.”
Alyssa Rush and her wife, Christin, were visiting L.A. for their anniversary. Being from San Francisco, they said, they love tacos of all varieties — and after the Super Bowl, they wanted to try Villa’s. They brought their infant son.
“We saw the cart on Bad Bunny’s halftime show so we were like, ‘Oh, let’s check out some tacos!’” Rush said, then motioned to their son. “He can’t have any yet, but at least he’s here.”
Lifelong Highland Park resident Sergio “Big Serge” Juarez visits Villa’s Tacos two to three times a month, but wanted to stop by on Monday after seeing Villa on TV.
“I wouldn’t be surprised if one day, with the right people in the White House, he’ll be in the White House catering,” Juarez said.
His family has lived in the neighborhood since the 1970s, and has seen Highland Park change in affordability and demographically. He said he hopes that the Super Bowl appearance shines a spotlight on Villa’s Tacos as well as others in the neighborhood, and that it encourages more exploration of the area’s mom-and-pop businesses.
“It’s highlighting the beauty of the community and the type of food that we have here,” he said. “But it’s not just Victor’s; there’s a lot of other community members that also sell good food. I think people should support him as well as other people within the community, but don’t just come — be a part of it.”
First Appeared on
Source link