Madewell x Benjamin Talley Smith Denim, Tested & Reviewed

People who love Madewell denim really ride for it. The category has a cult following, especially among fashion-industry people, like forever “It” girl Alexa Chung, celebrity stylist Molly Dickson, and our very own Chinea Rodriguez, who always has the Curvy ’90s Straight, the Darted Barrel-Leg, and the Low-Rise Baggy Straight in rotation. But jeans are so personal, and brands like Agolde, DL1961, Citizens of Humanity, and Pistola have always been better suited for my body type. I had all but written off Madewell denim as “not for me” when I tested the Longline Straight for a story last summer. Out of all the Madewell jeans I’ve tried over the years (there are currently about ten pairs in my closet), it’s the only pair I’ve ever fallen in love with. I basically lived in them all fall and winter. So when I heard about a new Madewell capsule made in collaboration with “the denim whisperer” Benjamin Talley Smith, I was intrigued.

Smith is the founder of Talley Creative, the renowned denim atelier that has developed denim lines for Khaite, Helmut Lang, Ulla Johnson, Re/Done, Everlane, Reformation, and even Walmart. In a 2024 profile, the New York Times named him “the most influential jeans guy you’ve never heard of.” Safe to say he knows good denim.

His limited-edition Madewell collection features seven styles ranging from $88 to $398, including mid-rise straight jeans, low-rise wide-leg jeans, a denim jacket, a classic sweatshirt, an oversize sweatshirt, and a cropped tee. I tested the Coolidge, a low-rise wide-leg jean, in the dark wash, and the Putney, a mid-rise straight jean, in both the light wash and dark wash for a few days before the launch to see if they’re worth $285.

If you’ve read this column, you know that I’m a true size 27 in 99 percent of denim brands and styles (the one exception are my Levi’s 501s, which are a size 28). My issue with Madewell denim in the past has been that 27s tend to be too small, but 28s are usually too tight around my thighs and too loose around my waist.

Since my favorite Longline Straight jeans are a 27, I decided to order 27s in both the Coolidge and the Putney. I was hoping the denim whisperer would eliminate some of the inconsistencies I’ve noticed with Madewell jean sizing in the past, but unfortunately, that didn’t happen.

These jeans are definitely low-rise. They hit about 1.5 inches below the top of my hip bone. The 27 fit perfectly — a little snug through the hips and upper thighs, but not uncomfortably so. You can wear them cuffed or uncuffed, which I appreciate because it makes them more versatile and wearable all year long. (I rarely wear cuffed jeans in the fall and winter; they feel so beachy!)

The Coolidges are long. I’m five-foot-eight, and when I wear them cuffed with flats, they skim the ground. The cuffed length works well with kitten heels, too. When I wear them uncuffed, they puddle at the hem (even with high pumps and boots), which doesn’t bother me at all. It gives me that slouchy, undone look I love. But if you’re shorter than me, you will definitely need to get them altered.

The Coolidge Low-Rise Wide-Leg Jean in Wells Wash.

The 27s are too small. I could barely get them buttoned, and when I finally did, it felt like they were bursting at the seams. I also nearly crashed out when I looked in the mirror and saw the way the thick, rigid denim made my legs look. I’m sure these jeans would be more flattering if they fit me better, but I can’t say with confidence that sizing up to a 28 would solve the problem.

From left: The Putney Mid-Rise Straight Jean in Wells WashThe Putney Mid-Rise Straight Jean in Whitney Wash

From top: The Putney Mid-Rise Straight Jean in Wells WashThe Putney Mid-Rise Straight Jean in Whitney Wash

I thought I owned every denim silhouette known to man, but the Coolidges are unlike anything else in my collection. The deep-indigo wash is great (and almost identical to Agolde’s Reissue wash), but the shape is even better. The ultra-low-rise waist and extreme wide-leg silhouette is so striking and impactful, even when paired with a basic sweater or plain white T-shirt.

The Coolidge Low-Rise Wide-Leg Jean in Wells Wash, styled four different ways.

The Coolidge Low-Rise Wide-Leg Jean in Wells Wash, styled four different ways.

When I unboxed the Coolidges, I immediately wished I had a beige fur coat like this one to pair them with. But since I don’t own one, I settled for my new Reformation funnel-neck jacket and a pair of Margaux ballet flats for a day at the office. I also wore them to an event with a short trench coat and my new favorite boots from Black Suede Studio. I loved the silhouette of a cinched coat paired with super-wide-leg pants, and I’ll definitely be wearing this outfit again in the spring. During New York Fashion Week, I styled these jeans with a Damson Madder striped tee, a St. Agni brown leather jacket (both are sold out, but you can shop similar options below), and red mules.

I did not wear either of these. I would have worn the dark-wash pair if they fit better. I would not wear the light-wash pair; the fading is too obvious for my liking, and I’m not a fan of the fringe hem. I thought it had potential when I saw photos online, but it looks unrefined in person. It’s also distracting; my eyes went straight to the fringe every time I tried them on, no matter what top or coat I paired them with.

Both jean styles in this collection are made from zero-stretch 100 percent cotton, which was produced sustainably using regenerative agriculture. They feel very rigid, especially at first, but get softer and more comfortable as you wear them (without losing their shape). They also feel durable and high-quality.

The Benjamin Talley Smith capsule is expensive for Madewell; denim from the brand usually retails for about $150, whereas the Coolidge and Putney styles retail for $285. But considering Smith’s expertise and prestige — and the fact that this collection was handcrafted in Los Angeles by a small team of artisans and finished with a custom, hand-sewn label woven on a vintage loom — $285 is fair (and comparable to brands like Citizens of Humanity, Paige, and Agolde).

Yes. Snag these now before they sell out … and get the white pair, too, while you’re at it. They are extremely well made, but what makes them worth $285 is the silhouette — it’s special and unlike anything I’ve tried.

I know low-rise jeans can be scary, but the ultrawide leg on these jeans makes them look so cool and slimming. Low-rise jeans can be tough because they make the legs look short and create unflattering proportions. But the cut of the Coolidge actually elongates the legs and gives the illusion of one smooth line from the hips to the thighs. And, like all Madewell jeans, the size range is excellent.

You can pass on these, in my opinion. Even if you’re someone who loves Madewell denim, these are not worth the splurge. If you are looking for mid-rise straight jeans, I’d recommend pairs from Abercrombie, Reformation, and Levi’s instead. They are just as good and a fraction of the price. I also highly recommend the Madewell Longline Straight jeans if you’re looking for the perfect French-girl cigarette jean for spring.