The Italian city where life is sweetest in winter

Winter menus also lean heavily on fonduta (a rich melted-cheese dish, served on its own or spooned over pasta, vegetables or eggs) and fritto misto (a mixed platter of lightly battered, fried meats, vegetables and sometimes fruit); while meat-lovers will find comfort in gran bollito misto (a procession of slow-simmered cuts served with green sauces) and veal brasato al Barolo, slowly braised in what locals call “the king of wines, the wine of kings”. Meals often end with bunet, a dense chocolate-and-amaretto pudding that feels entirely in keeping with the season.

A day trip to Ivrea: The Battle of the Oranges

For those keen to punctuate Turin’s winter rituals with something louder, Ivrea offers a striking contrast. Around an hour by train, the town’s historic Carnival builds through processions and ceremonies before erupting in the Battle of the Oranges, its best-known tradition.

Zsofia Safar

Held over three days from Carnival Sunday to Shrove Tuesday, the battle pits teams of aranceri (orange throwers) on foot against rivals riding in carts in a symbolic reenactment of a medieval revolt. I’ve watched from behind the safety nets and from inside the squares, close to the throwers and carts. It is loud, chaotic and strangely exhilarating.

Locals share a few rules for first-time visitors: dress warmly, keep a cup of vin brûlé (Piedmont’s mulled wine) close at hand, and wear the red berretto frigio – the Phrygian cap that signals neutrality – unless you’re ready to join the fray. 

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